Painting & Decorating - Do It Yourself & Home Improvement Guides

supplied by Wickes.co.uk ©2008 All rights reserved.

Download this Good Idea leaflet now. (pdf)

Shop at Wickes

Paint is not just something applied for decorative purposes. It also serves to protect the surfaces to which it is applied.

A number of factors play an important part in achieving good protective and decorative work. The most important are:

1. Selecting the correct paint for the job
2. Using the most suitable tools
3. Preparing surfaces
4. Applying the paint

 

Plus: THE TOP TEN GOLDEN RULES OF PAINTING

• Always read instructions on the paint can carefully and follow them
• Use access equipment properly. Don't take short cuts
• Wear sensible clothing and, especially, masks or other items designed to protect you
• Use the right tools for the job in hand. Wickes stock them
• Select the correct paint for the purpose. An interior paint will not last long outside

Selecting the Correct Paint

Just a quick quick glance along the shelves of Wickes will give you some idea of the number of different types of paint available. Understanding of what a paint is or does may be of help.

A simplified explanation. Paint is a mix of pigments - colours - held along with binders suspended in a liquid. The liquid may be no more than water or it may be a more complicated mix of natural or man-made resins. When the paint is applied to a surface the liquid evaporates leaving just the pigment and the binders as a surface coating.

Paints which are water based are commonly called Emulsion or acrylic paints and brushes and utensils are usually cleaned in water. Those which are resin based are commonly called Solvent (or oil) based paints and brushes and utensils generally need cleaning in White Spirit. Differences between the two types are in durability, flexibility, resistance to knocks, flaking, moisture, covering ability, cost, plus many other matters, but all types are formulated to do certain jobs in the best possible way. However Acrylic based paints now offer the same benefits of solvent based paints.

 

Emulsion Paints and Acrylic Paints

These paints are designed to cover large areas such as plastered or plasterboarded walls and ceilings in the most economical way. Some wallcoverings such as lining paper, embossed and relief papers, are also intended to be coated with an emulsion paint.

Modern emulsion paints include a vinyl element in their formulation for improved flexibility and strength and you will find that, for interior use, you will be able to purchase Vinyl Matt or Vinyl Silk versions. As their descriptions imply, you have the choice of an emulsion with a non-glossy dry finish or one without sheen.

Indicator Matt Emulsion Paint allows you to see where you've been. This product is pink when wet, then turns white as it dries. This product is applied in the same way as a traditional Emulsion and is great when redecorating white surfaces and working in poor lighting.

Basecoat Emulsion paint has been developed to treat surfaces that have deteriorated and are heavily affected by hairline cracks. This paint reduces the amount of filling and preparation required on difficult surfaces. It's also great for covering patchy surfaces that have been filled and has excellent opacity (ability to cover) so covers deep and contrasting colours very well, providing the ideal base for wall and ceiling paints.

 

Acrylic Water Based Paints

Acrylic water based paints are premium quality finishes that have been made using tough and durable Acrylic resins giving greater durability and performance than Emulsion paints.

Kitchen & Bathroom paint is one example. This is a mid sheen finish specifically for use in areas subject to high levels of condensation and provides a highly washable surface on walls and ceilings that are affected by steam, moisture, grease and grime.

Washable Matt coatings are also in this category. Available in a traditional format and also One Coat, both products retain the subtle popular Matt finish but are easy to clean, scuff resistant and fully washable.

Quick Dry Gloss and Satin finishes are also in the Acrylic family and have been developed to paint trim such as wood and metalwork in the home, making them ideal alternatives to Solvent based finishes.

These products offer all the benefits of water based paints such as low odour and quick drying, and the equipment is washed out in water, but provide high levels of durability. They are applied virtually in the same way as a Solvent based paint but for best results, a synthetic brush should be used.

Exterior water based masonry paints are acrylic based and formulated from tough acrylic resins to help cope with the extreme effects of the weather. The choice extends to smooth or textured finishes, both are matt in appearance. Smooth masonry paint is intended for use on smooth or a rough pebble dashed wall. Textured masonry paint is for use on smooth walls which require a textured effect. Also a good reason for application is the need to bridge non structural hairline cracks or to hide surface defects.

 

Solvent or Oil Based Paints

A number of different paints fit into this category but the majority are paints designed for the protection and decoration of interior or exterior wood and metal. These paints are often just called 'gloss paints'.

For years the same paints, along with their primers and undercoats, were used inside and out and it is perhaps not surprising that it was necessary to decorate the outside woodwork far more often.

In recent years paints have undergone some changes, one being that interior and exterior paints, for woodwork particularly, are now different.

Quality 'Gloss Paints' for exterior use are formulated to withstand the weather, to expand and contract in the same way that timber does, to allow moisture trapped in the timber to evaporate, and generally last very much longer. The ability to let timber 'breathe' is of major importance, this is achieved in many exterior paints by a system in which the paint does not form an impermeable skin over the surface. Instead, and explained in simple terms, it dries to form a series of platelets overlapping each other. You cannot see, lift or peel them off but they do move to allow for expansion, contraction, and breathing to take place. With previous paints the reaction to any of the above would have been cracking, peeling or lifting of the paint film. Such exterior paints must be used with a primer with similar characteristics also formulated for exterior use.

For interior use, such sophistication is not necessary and more conventional paints are used. These include primers and undercoats. A primer is applied to bare woodwork to prevent excessive and unnecessary absorption of undercoats, topcoats and also provide lasting adhesion to the substrate. Undercoat serves to provide a pigmented base, which enhances the overall appearance of the topcoat.

Again, advances in paint formulation have developed combined primer/undercoats, which are generally acrylic based. Topcoats may be either a gloss, satin or eggshell finish. Gloss may come in a non drip form or liquid, they both do the same job except the non drip version is supplied in gel form called thixotropic. The structure enables you to load your brush and transfer the paint from the can to the surface without the risk of drips coming off the brush. Only when the paint is brushed out will the gel break down and the paint revert to a liquid structure. Wickes stock a full range of primers, undercoats and topcoats.

There is an old expression that says, "a bad workman blames their tools". It would be better to say that if you do not use the correct tools you cannot expect good results.

Using the Most Suitable Tools

In terms of painting and decorating, tools range from equipment enabling you to gain safe access to the part of the house to be decorated, to the brushes or rollers used to apply the paint.

 

Access Equipment

For most interior painting you will seldom need more than a good set of stepladders with a platform at the top and a handle to hold onto. The platform is intended as somewhere to put your paint pot rather than a place on which to stand. You may need longer ladders when working in a stairwell and the extension ladders or access tower mentioned shortly may be required. ALWAYS use stepladders fully opened and with all four feet firmly on the floor. Never lean unopened ladders against a wall or other prop. Diagram A.

For outside work you will need longer ladders to reach up to eaves level and extension ladders will serve the purpose. Make sure that they are always set on firm ground, cannot slip or slide on wet ground, and are ideally secured at the top to, perhaps, eaves hooks, for added security.

Scaffold or access towers allow far greater freedom of movement and are safer than ladders since you stand on a platform some 1200mm wide and have space to move and lay out working materials. Safety precautions must still be taken to ensure the stability of the tower but in practice they are safer and more adaptable than ladders. Towers with base dimensions of about 1200 x 600mm can also be used very conveniently indoors when decorating stairwells for example. Wickes stock ladders.

An access accessory is a length of rope! When working up a ladder or scaffold tower, it is far easier to haul up your working tools and even the paint in a bucket on the end of a rope rather than trying to carry it all up in one hand whilst the other hand holds the ladder. Diagram B.

 

Tools for Preparatory Work

Careful preparation of surfaces to be decorated is the key to a job well done. To achieve good preparation you will require a selection of basic tools used both indoors and outside.

Essentials will be scrapers to remove flaking paint, filling knives to make good defective woodwork, plaster or rendering, a wire brush again to remove flaking paint from, especially, metal such as guttering, downpipes, wrought iron or window frames, perhaps an electric heat gun for the removal of old paint - the Wickes Hot Air Blower is ideal - a selection of Wickes abrasive papers and an, old brush for removing dust. Diagram C.

 

Health and Safety

As the selection of tools may suggest the initial preparation of surfaces is likely to be a dirt and dust creating exercise. It is essential therefore that precautions are taken to protect yourself from the damaging effects of such dirt. You must wear a nose and mouth mask to prevent inhalation of the dust. You should wear safety glasses for any job which results in specks of dirt being thrown up or splashes which could damage the eyes. Gloves provide good protection for the hands when working on rough surfaces or with a tool such as a hot air paint stripper.

Don't take risks - wear safety equipment. It is all available at Wickes. Diagram D. Protect furniture and furnishings indoors with dust sheets if you cannot remove all items at risk from the area. Always read the precautions on the product before use.

 

Tools For Application Purposes

Paint brushes top the list of requirements and you will need a selection because it is advisable to keep brushes for specific purposes. The brushes you use for applying white oil based paint should not be the same ones you use for coloured oil based paints. It is very difficult to clean brushes so well that residue from a colour does not contaminate white used some time later.

Because of the way brushes wear, those that you use for emulsion paints on walls should not be used on timber or metal where a very much smoother finish is normally required. Masonry use will wear brushes down and textured paints are very hard on brushes.

For emulsion paint you will need a wide brush, anything from 100mm to 150mm with the smaller one being the most common size and the easiest to handle when loaded with paint. Emulsion brushes are used for applying exterior masonry paints also.

A narrower brush, 38mm or 50mm, will be needed for the application of emulsion paint in situations where detailed work is needed.

You may well prefer to use a paint roller for the application of emulsion paints. If this is the case you will also need a paint tray and again a narrow brush, about 50mm for applying paint into corners prior to the use of the roller.

Different roller sleeves are needed for different jobs. For the application of interior emulsion onto smooth walls use a short pile sleeve or a foam sleeve. On textured or basically rough surfaces use a sleeve with a longer pile, and for texturing work use a foam sleeve which is preshaped to the required patterning. A long pile standard roller will create a stippled effect on textured paint. For oil based paint work you'll need a selection of brushes from about 12mm wide up to 75mm wide - for detail work to the painting of large flat areas such as doors. A window brush at about 18mm wide is shaped to permit cutting in work to be done.

Whatever paintwork is being done, except roller work, it is better to decant paint into a paint kettle rather than using it straight from the can. The can will invariably end up with paint runs down the sides and around the rim. It will become difficult to close eventually apart from being difficult to hold securely.

All the time that you are painting you will need cloths to wipe up the almost inevitable drips and for oil based painting you should keep White Spirit handy since the cloths should be dampened with this to clean up. A full range of application tools and accessories is available from Wickes. Diagram E.

The key to successful painting is good preparation of the surfaces to which the coat/s of paint will be applied. Paint will not remain on a defective surface for long, so careful preparation will pay dividends.

 

Preparing Surfaces

 

Bare Timber

Previously unpainted timber should initially be sanded smooth. Fill any cracks with woodfiller and sand this down to finish flush with the timber surface. If knots in the timber are 'sticky' or show signs of excess resin first remove this by wiping over the area with White Spirit to remove the resin. Then coat the area with either Wickes Patent Knotting Compound or Wickes Aluminium Primer to seal the knot. Loose knots are best removed and the resulting holes filled or they should be glued back into place. Use an exterior grade of filler or wood adhesive if the timber is destined for outside.

If new timber is to be used outside, surfaces which cannot be treated when in place are treated before being taken outside. An example would be replacement fascia boards, the back of which will be inaccessible when fixed. Such surfaces should be treated with preservative.

 

Previously Painted - Timber in Good Condition

Wash painted timber very thoroughly with water to which Wickes Sugar Soap has been added. This serves not only to clean the surface but also to remove some of the gloss. A gentle sanding down with a fine grade glasspaper will have the same effect. New paints do not key well to glossy surfaces and will chip off easily.

After cleaning and sanding the surface inspect it closely for any signs of defects such as hairline cracks or surface bubbling. Pay special attention to joints which are normally the first places to suffer from the effects of deteriorating paint films.

Small areas showing signs of slight deterioration may be repaired without having to strip the entire surface. Sand the affected area to remove all defective paint leaving only paint in good condition. If bare wood is exposed, prime the area and when dry, sand to blend the primer in with the old paint film.

NOTE. 'Breathing' paints such as Wickes Master Exterior Gloss will lose their prime benefit of allowing timber to breathe and permitting moisture to escape if applied over existing traditional paints. They should only be used on bare wood treated with Wickes Master Exterior Primer.

 

Previously Painted - Timber in Poor Condition

In virtually all cases where old paint films, particularly those outdoors, have broken down allowing the timber below to become exposed to moisture penetration, the only answer is to completely strip off the old paint, make good, and start from scratch. An exception is where the deterioration is intermittent and repairs as detailed above can be achieved. Diagram F.

Completely stripping off oil based paints can be achieved in one of three ways:

1. Physically sanding off
2. Removing with a chemical stripper
3. Removing using a hot air stripper

 

Note: Take care when sanding down old paintwork. Special precautions should be taken when sanding down surfaces painted before 1960 due to the possibility of lead in the paint. Use wetted Wickes Wet and Dry Sandpaper to reduce the potential risk.

 

Physically Sanding Off Paint

This is not an easy task and few people would want to consider it as a job to be done by hand using glasspaper but it is possible. Given the use of a powered sander the task becomes more feasible over flat surfaces but is still not easy. A great deal of dust is created and a nose and mouth mask must be worn. Use an orbital sander with a flat base rather than a circular sander which can easily cut too deeply leaving indentations in the timber surface. Diagram G.

 

Removing Paint with a Chemical Stripper

Suitable for use on oil based paints only, these chemical strippers are brushed onto the paint surface, left for a while to soften the paint, then the remaining stripper and softened paint are scraped off but please read the manufacturers instructions before use. In situations where there are many layers of paint, more than one application of the stripper will probably be necessary. Always wear gloves long sleeves and eye protection.

Note: keep this type of product away from PVCu surfaces (window frames sills, cladding etc.), vinyl flooring and anything plastic. If you must use near these, mask with a good quality masking tape and quickly wipe off any over spill. It is essential to wash and dry the surface thoroughly after the use of a paint stripper.

 

Removing Paint with a Hot Air Stripper

A hot air paint stripper is the modern equivalent of the old style blowtorch but with heated air, instead of a flame, used to soften old paint. This is probably the quickest and easiest method of paint removal. It works by blowing air across an electric element and expelling it through a narrow nozzle at about 300 to 600° C, so great care must be taken when using. Diagram H.

Air at this temperature will crack glass, melt PVCu window frames and vinyl flooring etc. If held there long enough, will set paint and flammable surfaces alight, so be careful. Wear suitable gloves, eye protection and long sleeves.

Don't place a hot gun on an easily damaged or flammable surface, and whilst this may sound obvious, do not touch the hot end, softened paint or scraper with bare flesh! That said, this is a great tool when used properly.

Start by practising on a piece of waste or out of the way painted timber. You will quickly get to know how long to heat the old paint, and how close it should be for it to soften enough to be easily removed with a scraper, without scorching the timber beneath.

Note: From cold, the hot air stripper will take anything up to a minute to reach its full working temperature so plan your work and try and keep the gun running, were safe to do so.

For areas near glass, either sand or use a chemical stripper, as appropriate but don't use paint strippers near anything made from PVCu.

 

Making Good - Old Stripped Timber Surfaces

The removal of layers of paint will undoubtedly uncover surface imperfections and there may even be areas of rotten wood which must be treated before any new paint is applied. Rot is most likely to have developed around window and door frame joints where the jambs meet the sills so always inspect these areas most carefully. Use a penknife blade or a screwdriver to test the hardness of timber in such areas and if the blade penetrates easily you can be sure that the timber is rotten. Diagram I.

Treatment usually means cutting away the affected timber, treating what is left with a preservative, then filling in the gaps. Large areas of missing timber can be replaced with new treated timber cut to shape and bedded in filler. If the rot has spread over a wide area you may have to consider replacing complete frames.

If bare stripped timber is not properly treated, with all defects repaired, the new paint will not key properly and its useful life will be greatly reduced.

 

Emulsion Painted Walls and Ceilings in Good Condition

If existing walls and ceilings are in good condition with no signs of flaking paint or other defects, then they only have to be cleaned and lightly abraded before being repainted. Start by clearing the area of furniture and furnishings.

Either cover all electrical fittings such as wall lights, switches or power sockets so that water cannot get near them, or cut off the power supply (preferably both). This will have to be done at the consumer unit. If water does penetrate sockets, switches or connections, it can prove lethal. Don't take risks.

Wash the ceiling first with sugar soap in warm water. Then make a start on the walls but start at the bottom and work your way upwards. This may seem strange but if you start at the top trickles of dirty water will run down the wall and be absorbed, dirt as well, into the dry wall below.

Allow the ceiling and walls to dry thoroughly before repainting.

 

Emulsion Painted Walls - in Poor Condition

Please note the comments in the previous section regarding electrical precautions.

In areas where old emulsion paint is peeling or flaking off it must be removed completely. This will involve hard work with a scraper to remove loose sections followed by equally hard work with a sander to cut back the old emulsion to a sound and well bonded edge. The surface should then be left to dry. During the drying period you may well find additional sections of emulsion lifting and these too must subsequently be removed by scraping and sanding. Make good any defective plasterwork under the old paint.

You will be able to repair minor cracks yourself with a standard plaster filler but for this to be successful and lasting you should work in the following manner:

Using the blunt end of an old screwdriver or similar tool rake out the cracks to make them a little wider and deeper. Remove any dust and loose particles ideally with a suction type vacuum cleaner. Then apply the filler forcing it well into the cracks. Leave it slightly proud of the wall or ceiling surface and only sand it down level when it is dry.

Tip: Apply a thin coat of white paint over the smoothed filled surface and allow to dry. Any imperfections will now be easily seen, in good light, and rectified.

The purpose of the raking out is to provide a considerably larger area to which the filler can key. With a good bond it is far less likely to crack again or fall out. Diagram J If a wall has been partly stripped but is left with minor surface imperfections such as lines where there is a division between remaining emulsion paint and bare plaster which cannot be sanded down to a smooth edge, you should consider putting lining paper on the walls before repainting. Lining paper provides an excellent base for emulsion paint and levels out many imperfections.

 

Papered Walls

It is not uncommon for people to strip off old wallcoverings and paint the walls instead. Most standard wallcoverings will come away from the wall quite easily if soaked with water for a while. The water penetrates the paper, softens the adhesive and can be easily removed with a wide bladed scraper.

Painted papers and papers which have layer upon layer may prove to be a problem since the water cannot penetrate easily. In this situation, it is much easier to use a Wickes steam wallpaper stripper from the start, rather than trying to scrape off hard old paper. The steam stripper pressurises moisture through the layers, softens them all, and allows speedy stripping to take place. You will quickly learn the knack of using a stripper and discover how long the plate must stay in one place to get right through to the wall behind Diagram K.

Note: Always read the machine instructions before use, never let the machine run dry and always place on a flat heat proof surface.

Once a papered wall has been stripped there is one further and very important step before painting can start. All old paste residues must be cleaned off thoroughly using sugar soap and water, cloths and perhaps a scrubbing brush. If the surface feels slippery there is old paste left and you should continue to wash down until it has all gone.

Vinyl wallcoverings will normally peel off easily leaving the backing paper on the wall, if it is in good condition and well bonded to the wall, it can be used as a lining for paint - or another wallcovering. If not, soak and remove.

 

Exterior Wall Surfaces

Exterior masonry must be as well prepared before repainting as interior walls and this means washing down as well as possible, probably using a hosepipe and scrubbing brush, and repairing defects.

Algae growth may be a problem and if this is evident on any wall surfaces it must be treated with Wickes Fungicidal Wash.

Check cement rendered, pebbledashed or other wall coatings for signs that the coating is still properly bonded to the brickwork behind. Remove and replace blown render indicated by hairline surface cracking or a hollow sound when tapped.

New rendering or previously painted surfaces, which are dusty to the touch, should all be treated with Wickes Master Stabilising Solution before being painted. This acts as a primer for exterior emulsions providing an excellent key for the paint. However, avoid over application of the stabilising solution, as it will prevent the paint from fully bonding and adhering. Tip: Make sure, when painting outside, that your neighbours car is not in the splash zone and anything you don't wish to be covered in paint is either covered or moved.

With all the hard preparation work done, the actual painting is a pleasure and relatively straightforward. Always start by reading instructions and safety notes printed on the paint containers and if in any doubt, get advice from a professional.

 

Applying Paint

Painting Interior Woodwork

 

Priming

If the woodwork is bare, you must always start with a coat of primer to seal the timber.

This prevents it soaking up later coats of paint and provides a suitable key for later coats. You can use a standard primer, an aluminium primer/sealer or a combined acrylic primer/undercoat. In all cases the timber must be dry and as dust free as possible. Brush on the primer working along the grain. Sand smooth when dry.

Undercoating

Undercoat is a strongly pigmented paint designed to provide blanket coverage to timber so that less topcoat is needed. Apply it with the grain as for primer and allow to dry. Lightly sand down after drying to leave a perfectly smooth surface.

 

Applying the Topcoat

The following applies to timber which has been primed and undercoated, or previously painted timber with the old paint still in good condition but cleaned.

If all the preparation work has been done carefully the surface should be dry, smooth and free of dust. Load the brush so that paint is about halfway up the bristles. Apply the topcoat along the grain, brush it out across the grain, and then finish with gentle strokes with the brush along the grain again. Do not overbrush leaving a very thin film of paint, but leave a coating which does not show signs of sagging on vertical surfaces or 'puddling' on horizontal surfaces. It is better to apply two relatively thin layers of topcoat than one thick one. More problems are caused by excessive thickness than are caused by thin coatings.

 

Painting Metal

If metal, such as cast iron, used for guttering, downpipes and wrought iron work, has been properly prepared and any rust removed, it can be primed and over coated with the Wickes Direct To Metal Paint or alternatively the selected Wickes Metal primer, subsequent undercoat and finish of your choice.

Totally new steel or cast iron should be degreased with White Spirit before applying a primer or Wickes Direct To Metal Paints.

 

Painting Exterior Woodwork

If using traditional oil-based paints, the technique is the same as for interior work with just a little extra care being taken to ensure complete coverage so that there is no possibility of moisture penetration. On window frames, for example, the sill ends and undersides of the sills must be fully painted.

When painting outside avoid working in full hot sunlight. This can prevent oil-based paints drying properly and may cause it to bubble. If the timber contains moisture this can heat up and almost steam. It will certainly expand and will be able to lift a paint film. Wait until the hot sun has moved on to another part of the house and then start painting. Don't paint if rain is expected or if there is the risk of frost before new paintwork has dried. Similarly at times of the year when mornings and evenings are subject to moisture in the air - dew - aim to paint as soon as the air dries in the morning and allow plenty of time for the paint to dry before the evening dampness comes in. Use quick drying paints whenever possible at these damp times of the year.

Remember that if using Wickes Master Exterior Gloss this can only be applied over a primer also designed to allow timber to breathe, expand and contract. Wickes Master Exterior Primer is formulated for this purpose. No undercoat is then needed.

 

Painting Interior Walls and Ceilings

Again it is assumed that, at this stage, old surfaces have been prepared as previously described. Tip: If you don't want it covered in paint, cover or remove.

Newly plastered walls should be left for a month before any paint is applied and then an initial coat of thinned emulsion should be applied as a primer before the full strength coats are put on. The priming coat should be about one part water to two parts emulsion. If work has to be carried out prior to the plaster being fully dry then use Wickes Paint for New Plaster or trade matt emulsion.

Painting with a roller is by far the quickest way to deal with ceilings and walls, but a little practice with the roller and emulsion paint onto a board or similar item will be useful. It will give you an idea of how to load the roller by gently moving it backwards and forwards in the paint in the paint tray. It will indicate just how quickly to spread the paint avoiding splashes which are caused by too speedy an application, and it will indicate the rolling direction which gives the most even coverage.

You will quickly find that a loaded roller needs to be moved quite slowly at first in one direction only to put the paint on the surface. The paint can then be spread out sideways by moving the roller diagonally, then it should be finished off in the same direction as the first rolls but with only light pressure on the roller itself. Diagram L.

Cover an area of about one square metre at a time. This will need more than one load of paint on the roller but is the area to treat before moving on to the next section. Blend the application of paint to the next section into that of the one before. Cover a ceiling in stages as shown in Diagram M. Treat a wall in similar fashion with vertical lines as shown in Diagram N.

A roller will not get into corners very well, you will need to apply the paint by brush and roller it out as well as you can to leave an even texture. Walls and ceilings will normally require two coats of emulsion if the colour is to be changed, or one coat if there is no change.

As an alternative to a roller apply the paint using a wide emulsion brush. You will still be able to achieve a very even finish but the job will take a little longer.

 

General Sequence for Interior Painting

Painting in any room always starts with the ceiling so that any paint drips or splashes do not cause problems. Include walls down to picture rails (if fitted) or other high level borders as part of the ceiling. Paint the walls next. In effect you are completing all emulsion paintwork and only when this is done do you tackle any oil-based satin or gloss work.

 

Applying Exterior Masonry Paints

These also can be applied by brush or roller and the same application rules apply. Don't operate a roller at high speed. You will get more paint on yourself than on the walls.

 

General Sequence for Exterior Painting

Painting the outside of your house is not something to be completed in a week or even all in a year. There is no reason why you should not tackle one elevation per year. The aim is to do the work so well that it does not have to be done again for a very long time. Start with all the dirty work which is the cleaning out of gutters and removal of rust, the washing of walls, the washing and perhaps stripping of exterior oil-based paints, and making good any defects found.

The decorative part also starts with the high level painting of gutters, plus fascias and soffits. If you can remove guttering it is worth doing so because the fascias behind are very often ignored but need treatment just as much as any other woodwork.

Paint the walls next from top to bottom unless there is a natural horizontal break which will enable you to do it in two halves. Move on then to gutter downpipes taking care to protect newly painted walls directly alongside and below from gloss paint splashes. Finally, paint the windows and doors.

 

Special Effects

Special effects are basically the manipulation of paint colours to make spectacular decorating effects. When first attempting any of the following techniques it is advisable to practice on a piece of waste plasterboard or an inconspicuous area.

 

Dragging

This creates fine muted stripes but is best reserved for furniture or doors, as keeping brush marks vertical over a complete wall can be difficult. A dragging brush is designed to give a soft, regular effect. Apply colourwash with a standard brush, then lay the dry dragging brush almost flat against the surface and drag down to create stripes. Work on areas of approximately 1m2.

 

Ragging/Bagging

This creates a 'distressed texture' appearance. To achieve this, firstly apply a basecoat of silk or soft sheen emulsion with a brush or roller and allow this to dry. Bunch a rag into the palm of your hand and dab or roll colourwash onto the surface. Using other materials, including plastic bags can vary the effect. Alternatively you can "rag off" by applying colourwash with a brush and removing the excess by dabbing with a clean rag. A bagging roller will produce a similar effect.

 

Sponging

Keep this simple by using a natural sponge with one colourwash shade or alternatively build up more complex patterns by using several shades. Wipe excess colourwash off the sponge then dab quickly onto the wall using a light motion. Start at the top of the wall, spacing out prints and changing the direction of your hand occasionally. When the sponge gets saturated, clean it out with water. Always wait for the first coat to dry before you start on the next.

 

Graining

Apply a coat of Melamine & Tile Primer followed by your choice of base colour in silk or soft sheen. Then using the graining rocker and graining comb tools together with a colourwash to mimic the effect of real timber. As you pull the rocker down, use a light rocking action to create a knot.

 

Stencilling

Fix the stencil in position using low tack masking tape. Dip the tip of a stencil brush into the paint. Remove any surplus paint by dabbing it onto kitchen paper until it has an almost dry appearance, as best results are achieved by using very little paint. Hold the brush in an upright position and fill in the shape using a circular dabbing motion.

 

Paint Coverage

Paints generally give some indication of their coverage per litre per coat on the containers but the following may be of some help in determining your requirements.

Coverage depends upon the absorbency of the material onto which the paint is to be applied and the paint quality. This is quoted as an average.

To put things into perspective, a standard door has an area of about 3.5m2 to be painted, including both sides and all edges, especially the bottom edge. You will need just over a quarter of a litre of primer, a quarter of a litre of undercoat, and a quarter of a litre of oil-based gloss to give the door one coat of each all over. A wall measuring 2.4 metres high by 4 metres long (8 x 13ft) has an area of 9.6m2. A litre of emulsion would be needed to give it one coat assuming it was not very absorbent.

Wickes Paint ranges symbolise all that is best in quality paints - coverage, durability, reliability, ease of application, wide colour and function choice.

supplied by Wickes.co.uk ©2008 All rights reserved.